I think it is particularly fitting that in a country as special as Bhutan that their highest mountain should be no less special. Not only is it hard, but it also has that perfect mountain shape with a pyramidical summit, dwarfing all the other peaks around.¹

—Steve Berry

Introduction

In November 2025 a trekking reconnaissance team organized by Firefox Tours conducted exploration of trails located south of Gangkhar Puensum peak, along the northern boundary of Trongsa and Bumthang dzongkhags.

The exploration extended north of Dur Tsachu, a well-known stop on the Snowman Trek. Following local herders' trails along the Mangde Chu, the team reached Kilkor Thang, a highland pasture situated below the Gangkhar Puensum massif. From there, the team explored and successfully crossed Oro La pass, continuing to the Zhogye Phu plateau and onward to Bamurpa, an established trekking campsite at the source of the Chamkhar Chu.

These trails have long been known and seasonally used by local communities for yak herding and the collection of medicinal herbs and fungi. Although their tourism potential had previously been anticipated, their viability and appeal as a trekking route for international visitors had not been verified, and exact geography remained unknown to tour operators.

The Firefox Tours team managed to firmly establish the trail course, confirming it can be effectively integrated into Bhutan's existing trekking network and identified three new potential campsites, enabling the establishment of a new medium-length trek, the Gangkhar Puensum Circuit.

The marketing potential of this trek is significant, as it meets many of the criteria sought by experienced trekking enthusiasts. With its pristine environment, remoteness, and challenging yet feasible route, the Gangkhar Puensum Circuit has strong potential to become one of Bhutan's premier trekking destinations.

Gangkhar Phuensum Peak

Gangkhar Puensum (7,570 m) is the highest mountain in Bhutan, 40^th highest mountain in the world and the highest unclimbed mountain massive. It lies along the northernmost border of Bhutan, almost in the perfect center of the country on the east–west axis. The mountain's glaciers are sources of two of Bhutan's major rivers, the Mangde Chu and Chamkhar Chu.

As the unclimbed “virgin” peak, Gangkhar Puensum retains a rare and enduring sense of mystery, inspiring fascination matched by only a few other world peaks. The idea of approaching close to its forbidden slopes and observing its pristine, untouched beauty naturally attracts interest of any serious mountain enthusiast.

At present, opportunities to observe Gangkhar Puensum at close range are fairly limited. The most widely known view is from Dochu La Pass on the Thimphu–Punakha highway, nearly 100 km away. A somewhat closer, though still distant, perspective is available from motorable passes such as Shertong La near Ura village.

Among trekking routes, the so-called Gangkhar Puensum Trek provides a distant view from Shingo settlement in the Chamkhar Chu valley, approximately 20 km from the peak². There are few other viewpoints on this trek, but none will provide a really perfect and close view of the mountain. The Snowman Trek, in its most remote sections, offers two viewing points – Gophu La pass and Zanam campsite – from a distance of roughly 15 km.

The Kilkor Thang pasture, explored by the Firefox Tours team during the November 2025 expedition, offers an exceptionally clear, close, and undisturbed view of Gangkhar Puensum and its extensive glacier, from approximately 10 km, possibly even closer³. From this vantage point, the meaning of the mountain's name – "The White Peak of the Three Spiritual Brothers" – becomes immediately clear, as all three summits are distinctly visible, aligned orderly from the highest to the lowest. The mountain stands solitary on the northern horizon, without being obscured or dwarfed by any closer peaks as it happens at other viewpoints.

Both international and Bhutanese mountain lovers should be afforded the opportunity to experience and appreciate this extraordinary peak from such a privileged location which the Firefox Tours team of experienced trekking professionals found to be the very best spot to appreciate the Gangkhar Puensum's beauty as well as one of the most scenic spots in Bhutan Himalayas.

The Trail Explored

The trail explored by the Firefox Tours team in November 2025 has existed for decades in the imagination of Bhutan's trekking community. As early as 2005, Dutch author Bart Jordans included a hypothesized version of this route in his well-researched guidebook Trekking in Bhutan, even though precise geographic knowledge was lacking. The unconfirmed status of the trail was unfortunately not clearly indicated, leading to confusions as to what is really known and what is not.

However, Jordans remained consistently engaged with ongoing exploration efforts and incorporated newly reported information from trekkers and explorers into subsequent editions of his guidebook. Over time, the elusive route leading from Dur Tsachu along the Mangde Chu toward the Gangkhar Puensum, and further across a pass to Zhogye Phu (which Jordans referred to as Jumbo Jet valley) and also another, yet to be explored, trail connecting sources of Mangde Chu with Lunana, became informally known among Bhutanese guides as "Bart Jordans' way." The idea of this trail developed an independent life within trekking folklore, supported in part by local horsemen and camp helpers who confirmed the trails' existence in principle, though without providing consistent or verifiable geographic details.

Influenced by Jordans' work, Nepali cartographer Pawan Shakya included the imagined trails' alignments as established trekking routes in his popular Bhutan Himalaya Map, further reinforcing the mistaken perception that a continuous, functional trekking trail already existed.

Over the years, several trekking groups made varying attempts to validate Jordans' hypothesized route. Results remained inconclusive. Notably, the British trekking groups in 2014 and again in 2015 made news by reporting findings of unusual "yeti" footprints in Zhogye Phu while attempting to locate a scalable pass linking the valleys. The leader of these groups was Steve Berry, who had previously been a leader of the 1986 mountaineering expedition and remained involved in the area's exploration.

In the 2012 edition of his guidebook, Bart Jordans cited a claim by guide Sonam Wangchuk, who reportedly crossed from Zhogye Phu to Mangde Chu valley via a pass referred to as Sheyga La. While the described terrain features – such as stone markings and loose boulder fields – correspond with observations made during the Firefox Tours expedition, the lack of precise locational detail in the account makes it difficult to confirm whether the same pass was involved. The concerned guide could not be contacted for verification.

A Czech trekking group organized by Firefox Tours in 2017 also attempted to locate the pass from Zhogye Phu. However, deteriorating weather and time constraints prevented thorough exploration. The group ultimately crossed an alternative pass to the south, traversing the rugged high altitude terrain (Gangchen) into the Jiu Thang valley, before descending toward Dur Tsachu from the northeast, bypassing the Kilkor Thang at the sources of Mangde Chu.

By the time the Firefox Tours reconnaissance expedition commenced in November 2025, the trails under consideration therefore remained largely unverified, inconsistently documented, and open to systematic exploration.

Overcoming Problem

The Firefox Tours expedition benefited from several key lessons learned from earlier attempts, which proved crucial to its success:

1. Keeping the team size minimal to maintain flexibility and speed.

2. Defining exploration as the sole objective, with no commercial or leisure components.

3. Approaching the route clockwise, rather than counter-clockwise.

4. Being fully equipped and mentally prepared to abandon horses for an extended period if necessary.

The critical weakness of most previous attempts stemmed from the fact that they were not fully dedicated exploration missions, but rather commercial group treks with only a few days set aside for reconnaissance.

In such circumstances, the comfort, safety, and satisfaction of paying clients naturally take precedence over exploration goals. In some cases, the “exploration” component risked becoming more of a marketing feature than a genuinely intended project.

Most earlier groups approached the area by trekking up the Chamkhar Chu valley along the established Gangkhar Puensum Trek, and then spent a few days in Bamurpa attempting to locate the correct pass by exploring the Zhogye Phu plateau.

The underlying flaw of this approach lies in the fact that groups were searching for an unknown pass leading to an unknown destination. This double uncertainty – lacking knowledge of both the pass itself and the place it should lead to – turned all reconnaissance efforts starting from Zhogye Phu into a frustrating hit-and-miss struggle. The Czech team of 2017, which managed to locate a viable pass that unexpectedly delivered them to an entirely different area, is a prime example of this issue.

For this reason, the Firefox Tours team chose to begin the exploration from the opposite direction, starting in Dur village in Bumthang and trekking over Juli La pass (4,700 m) to Dur Tsachu, following the established trail of the famous Snowman Trek. North of Dur Tsachu, the actual reconnaissance phase began.

The primary objective was to determine whether a trail exists leading from Dur Tsachu toward the sources of the Mangde Chu river at the Gangkhar Puensum glacier, and to assess the condition of such a trail and its surrounding terrain. Only if this proved feasible would the team proceed to the secondary goal: locating the pass leading to Zhogye Phu.

Naturally, identifying a mountain pass that leads to a known, mapped, and easily recognizable location should be significantly easier than searching for an unknown pass leading to an unknown place.

Another critical challenge in Bhutan is that trekking logistics depends exclusively on pack animals, usually horses or mules. Human porterage, common in Nepal and other Himalayan countries, is not practiced, as established Bhutanese trekking trails are generally suitable for horses.

However, the same cannot be said for unmapped or unverified trails, such as those targeted in this exploration. Their condition was unknown and presumed unsuitable for horses. Even the well-known trail to the Zhogye Phu plateau had been impassable for horses until it was upgraded recently.

Most other exploration groups (with the notable exception of the 2017 team) were not prepared to abandon their horses for an extended period. Their ability to explore was therefore limited to areas reachable within a single day's excursion, or at most one overnight without horses.

In contrast, the Firefox Tours expedition fully recognized the importance of not being dependent on horses. The team was equipped – and mentally prepared – to leave behind all non-essential gear and supplies for up to three consecutive nights, carrying only what was necessary. This approach proved absolutely essential to the eventual success of the expedition.

Firefox Tours Expedition

By November 15, 2025, when the group began trekking from Dur village toward the first campsite, the primary goal of the exploration was simply to reach Dur Tsachu – the famous hot springs in the Mangde Chu valley – and see if it was possible to proceed further north along the river. All options remained open and expectations were carefully managed; the possibility that the expedition might encounter a dead end would not have surprised anyone.

The team members participating in the exploration were as follows:

1. Michal Thoma: The Czechia-based tour leader, travel agent, and Himalayan enthusiast who conceived and planned the exploration project.

2. Dawa: The senior Bhutanese trekking guide.

3. Tharchen: The trekking contractor and senior trekking staff member.

4. Pem Dorji: The senior trekking chef, who was also a member of the previously mentioned 2017 Czech trekking group.

5. Tshering Penjor: Helper staff and a local from Dur village. As a seasonal cordyceps⁵ collector, his knowledge of the local topography proved crucial to the trip's success.

6. Phub Dorji: The horseman and a local from Nasiphel village, managing five horses loaded with equipment and supplies.

In addition to the team members on the expedition, Dawa Dorji Tamang, the Managing Director of Firefox Tours, provided essential back-office support. Senior trekking staff member Sonam Phuntsho coordinated the team’s logistics between Thimphu and Jakar.

The first significant breakthrough of the exploration effort occurred even before the reconnaissance officially began, during an ad-hoc discussion in the kitchen tent on the second day. Since the full objectives of the endeavor were not known to all members prior to the start, the team needed to be briefed in detail.

Camp helper Tshering Penjor and horseman Phub Dorji contributed their local knowledge, confirming that the trail following the Mangde Chu river from Dur Tsachu is reportedly in active use by yak herders and cordyceps collectors from the Sephu area in Wangdue Phodrang dzongkhag. While neither had walked the entire trail themselves, Tshering Penjor noted that he had visited the head of the valley – where the trail concludes – during one of his cordyceps collecting ventures.

According to his report, this location is called Kilkor Thang; it is situated near the Gangkhar Puensum glacier and offers a direct view of the mountain. He also confirmed his knowledge of a pass, which he referred to as the Oro La, connecting Kilkor Thang with the Zhogye Phu plateau on the other side.⁶

Fortunately, the following day, after the long descent to Dur Tsachu, the caretaker of the hot springs confirmed the information provided, including a detailed description of the trail leading to Kilkor Thang. He also confirmed the viability of the Oro La pass toward Zhogye Phu. Unfortunately, it was also ascertained that horses could not travel this way.

Armed with this new information, the decision was made to split the group. Chef Pem Dorji and horseman Phub Dorji, along with the horses and all equipment and supplies, would trek back along the established trail back over Juli La pass and further over the Thole La pass to the Bamurpa campsite in the Chamkhar Chu valley. This journey was expected to take three days, including two overnights at the Tshochenchen and Tsampa campsites.

The reconnaissance team – consisting of Michal, Dawa, Tharchen, and Tshering Penjor – would part ways with the horses. Carrying limited equipment and supplies on their backs, they would trek along the unexplored trail toward Kilkor Thang, likely camping at a suitable spot along the Mangde Chu valley. The expectation was that on the second day, the group would reach Kilkor Thang, proceed to the Oro La, and spend the second night on the Zhogye Phu plateau after crossing the pass. Finally, on the third day, the group would reach Bamurpa to reunite with the horse party and the rest of the supplies.

The plan seemed sound, and the caretaker of Dur Tsachu attested to its feasibility. Nevertheless, doubts remained as to whether the reconnaissance team would actually manage to find and cross the pass to successfully rejoin the horse party or would be blocked by any unexpected obstacle. The timeframe of the above plan also remained in doubt, later proved to be justified.

Reconnaissance Diary

Day 1: Mangde Chu valley

On November 18, 2025, the reconnaissance group began their trek from Dur Tsachu, initially following the established Snowman Trek trail. After approximately 3 km, the Snowman Trek trail turned westward, ascending toward Warathang La, while the reconnaissance group continued hiking along the Mangde Chu river.

After passing a small herder's hut, the group crossed to the western bank of the river over a solid wooden bridge. Soon after, another trail branched off toward the east, presumably leading to a pasture called Jiu Thang. The 2017 Czech exploration group possibly arrived from this direction. From here, the trail began to ascend and became quite narrow as it traversed a steep slope. This was one of several sections where horses would undoubtedly have struggled.

The trail was demanding even for the team members, who were carrying heavy loads. Progress thus remained slow. The trail proceeded through mixed forest with occasional clearings, moving up and down while traversing several side streams. As anyone familiar with trekking in the Himalayas knows, navigating a narrow river valley is an arduous task. For every hundred meters of elevation gained, the trail often descends fifty meters back toward the riverbed before another ascent begins to bypass a side cliff or cross a mountain stream.

About 2.5 kilometers further on, the group arrived at a larger clearing where a yak herder's hut stood, prompting a brief confusion about the correct route to follow. The bridge crossed earlier was still clearly visible from this clearing, illustrating the relatively short distance covered so far despite the exertion.

In the late afternoon, the group reached Tsachu Gonma, another almost unknown hot spring located on the opposite (western) bank of the river. A small temple, some roofed structures, and ground suitable for camping were visible, with a solid wooden bridge built further upstream for crossing. There were no signs of current human presence, however. Due to time constraints, the reconnaissance group opted to continue onward rather than explore the hot spring facilities thoroughly.

The group continued hiking north along the eastern bank of the Mangde Chu. The trail remained clear and walkable, despite being rugged. It appears the trail is in active use, with several sections showing signs of regular maintenance. Thanks to the detailed instructions from the Dur Tsachu caretaker, navigation proved straightforward, with only one minor point of confusion. According to Tharchen’s expert assessment, while yaks could navigate this path easily, certain sections would require upgrades for horses; however, most of the trail remains viable for horses even in its current state.

As it grew late and dusk began to fall, it became apparent that the group would not reach the higher elevations where the mixed forest transitions into scrubland and the narrow valley would open up. Once darkness set in, the party was forced to camp at a less-than-ideal spot directly beside the trail. The flat ground was extremely limited, barely providing enough space to pitch the tents. For a commercial trekking group, it would certainly be more practical to camp at Tsachu Gonma instead.

Day 2: Kilkor Thang

The following day, on November 19, 2025, the group started trekking early in the morning. After just over one kilometer, the valley began to open up. As the elevation exceeded 4,000 meters, the mixed forest gave way to rhododendron and juniper shrubs interspersed with patches of alpine grassland.

Most importantly, the first glimpse of Gangkhar Puensum from the south opened up directly to the north toward the head of the valley – a monumental, solitary mountain clearly dominating the horizon. By this point, it was evident that the reconnaissance had already achieved its primary objective: finding a new approach to the highest mountain in Bhutan that would be viable for commercial trekking groups.

Less than two kilometers from the makeshift camp, the group encountered a small clearing with sufficient flat ground. This site would have offered a much more comfortable and scenic overnight stay had the team been able to maintain a faster pace the previous day.

The trail remained demanding to navigate. Furthermore, crossing side streams with unmelted ice required caution. Carrying a good quality pair of ice spikes is recommended for trekkers in this terrain. Consequently, the group's progress pace remained very slow.

After three kilometers – a distance that took approximately two hours to cover – the main trail branched off, ascending toward the northeast. The reconnaissance group, however, continued to follow the eastern bank of the river. This likely proved to be a mistake, as orthophotographic maps (checked in hindsight) suggest the diverted trail leads directly to the Kilkor Thang campsite and would have been easier to navigate and walk than the trail taken.

Despite approaching its headwaters, the Mangde Chu remained a formidable stream. Another trail soon became clearly visible on the opposite bank; orthophotographic data indicates that it follows the river for a considerable distance. This may be the path that eventually leads over a pass connecting to the Snowman Trek – another hypothesized route that has yet to be explored for tourism and trekking.

The trail followed by the group became somewhat unclear shortly after crossing a massive side stream. Later it was determined that this stream flows directly from the Kilkor Thang campsite. In retrospect, following the watercourse uphill might have been an easier alternative to continuing to walk along the Mangde Chu river, following the gradually less clear path.

Following lunch, the group started a challenging climb, tracking an indistinct path that ran along the top of a lateral ridge, set perpendicularly to the river. This climb eventually led to a sprawling plateau at approximately 4,500 meters, featuring glacial lake and numerous stone foundations of temporary herders' huts. As Tshering Penjor confirmed, this is Kilkor Thang proper – the site he had previously visited during his cordyceps collecting trips. From this point onward, the route over the Oro La pass was familiar to him.

With daylight fading, the group decided to camp at Kilkor Thang. Although approximately 1.5 hours of light remained, this was decidedly insufficient for a safe crossing of the Oro La pass.

The afternoon and evening hours provided an opportunity to explore the surroundings and enjoy the spectacular scenery. Gangkhar Puensum, if not hidden in clouds, would be clearly visible from the campsite, dominating the northern horizon with its monumental three summit form. Just a few minutes from camp, at the edge of the plateau, a 360-degree panoramic viewpoint offers a breathtaking look at the source of the Mangde Chu river, the massive Gangkhar Puensum glacier, the peak itself, the pass to be crossed the following day, and the snow-covered mountain range to the west.

It became immediately clear that Kilkor Thang is not merely a necessary stop before attempting the pass, but one of the most beautiful campsites in Bhutan – easily rivaling Jangothang on the Jomolhari loop in terms of grandeur. The area warrants further exploration for potential side trips and excursions, as one night is simply not enough to fully appreciate such a location.

Day 3 and 4: Oro La and Zhogye Phu

The third day of the reconnaissance, November 20, 2025, was expected to be the most difficult. The exploration team planned to cross the Oro La pass, descend into the Zhogye Phu valley, and finally reach the horse team’s camp at Bamurpa – even if it meant walking into the night, as food supplies were running low.

However, the experience of the previous days had clearly shown that the team's pace was far slower than desired. In fact, the caretaker at Dur Tsachu had estimated the team would already cross the Oro La by the second day. But due to the sheer difficulty of the terrain, this was simply not feasible, even without the heavy loads of camping gear and kitchen supplies.

Even though the barometric pressure was falling and the weather forecast warned of a possible storm⁸, the morning sky was a clear blue. It became cloudier as the day progressed, but fortunately, no snowfall or precipitation hindered the exploration effort. This was a stroke of good luck, as crossing any mountain pass in bad weather can be difficult, if not impossible.

The team left camp after breakfast, hiking toward the northern edge of the Kilkor Thang plateau, where the scenic viewpoint of Gangkhar Puensum is located. From there, the team began their ascent toward the pass. As the terrain became increasingly rugged with stones and boulders, the trail almost entirely disappeared.

While ascending further and after observing the snow situation, Tshering Penjor, who had initially pointed toward the eastern mountain pass as the Oro La, suggested the group instead take a different pass located further to the northeast, claiming that it was also the Oro La. He explained that because both passes begin at the same point and descend to Zhogye Phu, locals refer to both by the same name.

The northeastern Oro La indeed had much less visible snow at its summit, whereas the original eastbound pass appeared quite uninviting due to heavy snow cover. After consulting the available topographic maps, the direction suggested by Tshering Penjor seemed sensible; consequently, the group decided to proceed as he recommended.

However, as the group progressed toward 5,000 meters, crossing the boulder fields became especially challenging, as the gaps between the rocks were filled with snow. Walking required either careful checking if the snow was firm enough and that there were no dangerous holes hidden beneath, or moving forward by physically strenuous jumps from stone to stone to avoid stepping on the snow stretches entirely.

On the bright side, the ascent trail was regularly and clearly marked by small stone stupas – essentially a few stones stacked atop one another in highly visible spots. These markers provided constant reassurance that the team had not diverted from the trail and would not eventually reach an impasse where retreating was the only viable option. The presence of these markers also confirmed Tshering Penjor’s claim that the pass is in regular use by locals, albeit on a seasonal basis.

Finally, the group reached the clearly marked summit, distinguished by a central stone stupa approximately 1.5 meters in height and two smaller stupas flanking the approach trail. The GPS measured an elevation of 5,285 meters – a formidable height, yet relatively standard compared to other major trekking passes in Bhutan. However, by the time all group members had reached the top, it was already half-past two in the afternoon, leaving only about three hours of daylight.

The view toward the opposite side of the pass was far from encouraging. The vast, wide, and relatively flat valley stretching below was undoubtedly Zhogye Phu, dotted with a number of frozen lakes. Because the plateau sits at an elevation of roughly 5,000 meters, it was covered in a mix of snow and stone. As expected on a north-facing slope, the descent route was entirely snow-covered. It became immediately clear that descending to Zhogye Phu and pushing onward to Bamurpa would be neither easy nor fast.

It is important to note that the snow conditions encountered by the exploration team were far from normal for this time of the year. This was a direct consequence of Cyclone Montha, which brought extraordinary precipitation across Bhutan in early November. Due to the prevailing low temperatures since the storm, the snow had failed to melt at higher altitudes. Had the team conducted the exploration in October – or had the cyclone not occurred – the pass crossing would have been significantly easier, with little to no snow covering the Zhogye Phu valley and pass.

Fortunately, the initial descent from the pass through the knee-deep snow was relatively simple. The soft, dry texture of the snow provided reliable footing, allowing for a rapid pace down to a hanging terrace with a frozen lake, situated at the base of the pass

At this point, the terrain shifted into a sprawling field of boulders partially hidden beneath the snow. This stretch proved tedious, as navigating the uneven ground necessitated a much slower and more deliberate pace to avoid the unstable gaps between rocks. It took two hours to reach a small, snow-free patch of ground where the team finally stopped for a brief warm meal.

As darkness fell, the team was still traversing the upper reaches of Zhogye Phu, navigating around the valley's largest lake across expansive snowfields. Although the group attempted to stick to snow-free patches whenever possible, they were eventually forced to continue in pitch darkness, relying solely on headlamps for another two hours.

It soon became evident that pushing forward under these conditions is not reasonable. Consequently, a quick makeshift camp was established at an elevation of nearly 5,000 meters, where the exhausted team members fell into a deep sleep almost immediately.

The wisdom of that decision became clear the next morning as daylight permitted the exploration team to move swiftly in the right direction out of the snow and commenced to descend to the valley following a clear and comfortable trail. Soon, Chamkhar Chu remained the only obstacle between the reconnaissance team and the camp of the horse party on the other side. Since there is no bridge or ford available, the group needed to cross the river barefoot. While this was a small annoyance compared to previous days' obstacles, it is good to know that sandals for wading are a useful part of equipment to carry for such situations. If the water level is high, the group would need to descend as far as Shingo, where the wooden bridge is located.

By November 21, 2025 the reconnaissance team rejoined Pem Dorji and Phub Dorji with the horses and full equipment and supplies, concluding the exploration loop with complete success, having established a walk-able trail previously unknown for tourism and succeeded where many others before had failed.

New Trekking Trail

The exploration itinerary as described should by no means be interpreted as a blueprint for the future trekking. While for the reasons explained, starting at Dur Tsechu made a good sense for the purpose of reconnaissance, one of the key takeaways from the exploration results is that starting in Chamkhar Chu valley and making a loop counter-clockwise is generally easier and logistically more reasonable than the opposite direction.

The reasons to do trekking loop counter-clockwise are as follows:

1. Starting trek hiking up the Chamkhar Chu valley is better for altitude acclimatisation due to smooth ascent gradient, compared to steep opposite-direction starting from Dur Village to Juli La pass.

2. The ascent over Oro La pass is less demanding when traveling from Zhogye Phu to Kilkor Thang, requiring an elevation gain of only 300 meters, as opposed to the 650 meters needed for the journey in the reverse direction.

3. Should excessive snow block the Zhogye Phu and Oro La pass, the group would be able assess the condition first hand in Zhogyephu itself and make an informed decision to abort the trek. This will permit a comfortable return with the horses, while retaining a still pleasant trekking experience through Chamkhar Chu, with views of Gangkhar Puensum. However, while trekking from the opposite direction the group will only discover the pass is blocked long after parting ways with horses, making return logistically difficult.

It is important to note that this trek requires some creative logistics as the pack animals can’t cross Oro La pass. However, horses can go up to the Zhogye Phu. Based on exploration group experience, the best option is to arrange for human porterage from Zhogye Phu through Kilkor Thang till Dur Tsachu.

Horses starting from Zhogye Phu require three days with two overnights to reach Dur Tsachu via Thole La. This is also a comfortable time for a trekking group to cross Oro La, spend one night around Kilkor Thang, the second in Tsachu Gonma and then reach Dur Tsachu on the third day afternoon. If lightweight tents and camping equipment is used and food provisions are carefully selected with regard to their weight, just a few additional trekking support staff to carry equipment and provisions will suffice.

Another more costly and logistically demanding option would be to send a second support staff team with equipment carried on yaks to Kilkor Thang. That would enable trekkers to cross Oro La pass lightweight. Porterage would be only required for the guests personal things.

Proposed Campsites

For the trek to be successfully organized as commercial trekking group for foreign trekkers or for mountain-loving Bhutanese, relevant authorities might consider adding following new campsite to the existing list:

1. Zhogye Phu: Highland plateau about 3 hours trek from the existing campsite of Bamurpa. This is already being used by locals as yak pasture with a number of permanent herders’ huts built. Campsite is important for the groups to have staging camp before crossing the Oro La pass. It falls under Bumthang Dzongkhag.

2. Kilkor Thang: Elevated shelf above the upper part of Mangde Chu river below the Oro La pass. The place has abundant flat land, water source and is in regular use by yak herders. The place is administratively under Trognsa Dzongkhag.

3. Tsachu Gonma: Hot springs are about a 4-5 hours trek from Dur Tsachu towards Kilkor Thang. It is an optimal overnight stop while trekking from Dur Tsachu to Kilkor Thang and an optional stop when going in the opposite direction. It also falls under Trongsa Dzongkhag.

Administrative approval of these new campsites is basically the only obstacle for tour operators to start organizing Gangkhar Puensum Circuit trek as described.

An improvement to the trail along the Mangde Chu, connecting Dur Tsachu to Tsachu Gonma and extending to Kilkor Thang, would also be advantageous, even though not necessary. Making this path passable for horses would benefit not only trekkers but also local yak herders, cordyceps collectors, forestry officials and Tsachu Gonma hot spring visitors.

Building a simple bridge or ford over Chamkhar Chu at Bamurpa would also improve access to Zhogye Phu, especially if the water level is high.

Gangkhar Puensum Circuit Itinerary

The suggested route will guide adventure-seekers through the Chamkhar Chu valley, visiting the holy site of Tsampa and passing through ancient forests and deep gorges before ascending to the highland pastures of Shingo and Bamurpa, which offer the first views of Bhutan’s highest mountain.

This is followed by the challenge of crossing the Oro La pass. The pass presents a moderate challenge, comparable to other Himalayan passes⁹. It involves a few short, steep sections where hand use may be required for stability, but it remains manageable for a reasonably fit person without the need for specialized mountaineering equipment.

The descent leads into the remote area of Kilkor Thang, the source of the Mangde Chu river. Here, the Gangkhar Puensum dominates the skyline. This is the highlight of the trek, one of the most beautiful scenic spots in Bhutan Himalayas.

From Kilkor Thang, the trail descends into the forests and gorges of the Mangde Chu before reaching Dur Tsachu, a site known for its hot springs, which serves as a restful conclusion to the main trek. The final section of the route joins the established Snowman Trek before concluding the circuit in Bumthang.

• Day 1: Nasiphel (2,850 m) to Sadduksum (3,125 m). Distance: 11 km | Time: 4-5 hrs | Elevation Gain: 450 m | Loss: 150 m. Easy day starting with a ride from Jakar to the trail head at Nasiphel. In Khaktang military camp the trekking permits will be checked and soon one can start trekking through the forest along Chamkhar chu river with some gentle ups and downs. Camping at Sadduksum by the confluence with Gumthang Chu is comfortable enough with the fireplace and small cabin available for sleep and cooking.

• Day 2: Sadduksum to Tsampa (3,700 m). Distance: 13 km | Time: 5-6 hrs | Elevation Gain: 650 m | Loss: 50 m. Another relatively easy day trekking mostly gently uphill and offering stunning views of the narrow valley with rapidly flowing river. One will experience first signs of high altitude. In Tsampa, the permits will be once again checked at the advanced military camp. There are a number of holy spots related to Terton Pema Lingpa and Drukpa Kuneley to see. Tsampa Lhakhang is definitely worth a visit.

• Day 3: Tsampa to Shingo (4,200 m). Distance: 9 km | Time: 4-5 hrs | Elevation Gain: 500 m | Loss: 20 m. Continue trekking uphill following Chamkhar Chu, passing through the Tsampa Lhakhang. There are a number of seasonal herders’ settlements on the way. Also pass around the source of mineral water. The trail gently ascends through forest until it finally reaches the zone of shrubs and the undisturbed albeit relatively distant view of Ganghar Puensum opens further north. Reach to Shingo herders settlement and camp, taking a good rest.

• Day 4: Shingo to Bamurpa (4,500 m). Distance: 5 km | Time: 3 hrs | Elevation Gain: 500 m | Loss: 0 m. This is going to be a short hiking day following the river through the wide open valley with the Gangkhar Puensum gradually disappearing from the view, giving a way to Melunghi Khang, neighbouring seven-thousander to the east. Upon reaching Bamurpa campsite, this is the mountain which will dominate the horizon to the north. Gangkhar Puensum can only be seen when hiking a bit uphill towards the east. Spend rest of the day in leisure, taking a rest or with a gentle hike, to get proper acclimatisation to high altitude.

• Day 5: Bamurpa halt & explore. For the acclimatization day, several hiking routes offer excellent options. The most favored choice involves hiking north to Boortsam, which provides a vantage point overlooking the Chamkhar glacier and lake. Alternatively, groups can choose to hike to the viewpoint hills situated about 5,000 meters east or west of the Bamurpa camp.

• Day 6: Bamurpa to Zhogye Phu (5,000 m). Distance: 5 km | Time: 3 hrs | Elevation Gain: 500 m | Loss: 20 m. The hike from Bamurpa to Zhogyephu is relatively short, and the path is well-maintained, but the high altitude makes it somewhat challenging. After arriving at the campsite, you are free to explore the valley further. It is expansive and relatively flat, even though rugged, featuring several scattered ice lakes. Guidebook writer Bart Jordans nicknamed it “Jumbo Jet Valley”, supposedly because it is large enough for a big aircraft to land. There are many scenic viewpoints to be found and enjoyed throughout the afternoon.

• Day 7: Zhogye Phu to Kilkor Thang (4,600 m) via Oro La (5,285 m). Distance: 8 km | Time: 6 hrs | Elevation Gain: 300 m | Loss: 650 m. Start hiking towards the western edge of the valley, keeping the large ice lake on your left, then gradually turn south and climb to an elevated shelf, passing a smaller lake. The steep ascent begins here over a rugged boulder field. At the top, a stupa clearly marks the pass summit, offering scenic views of the ranges towards Lunana in the west and the Zhogye Phu lakes back to north. The descent is initially easier, later becoming more demanding while crossing large, sometimes loose, boulders. Finally, you reach Kilkor Thang, an elevated strip overlooking the Mangde Chu valley. Stop to observe the glacier and the monumental Gangkhar Puensum peak to the north. Camp by the stream or close to the small lake.

• Day 8: Kilkor Thang to Tsachu Gonma (3,700 m). Distance: 10 km | Time: 3-4 hrs | Elevation Gain: 50 m | Loss: 940 m. Enjoy the views of Gangkhar Puensum in the morning sun! You might want to walk to the northern viewpoint close to the base once again. Since this day's distance is relatively short and easy, you could first explore the area towards the Gangkhar Puensum glacier, looking for another scenic point. Then, trek down from Kilkor Thang to Mangde Chu and follow the trail through rhododendron and juniper bushes, while crossing a few streams. Wading shoes and ice spikes (if the river is frozen) might be helpful here. Finally, reach the mixed forest and continue, gradually descending with some ups and downs until you arrive at Tsachu Gonma on the western side of the river, accessed by a wooden bridge. Explore the area and enjoy the bath if possible!

• Day 9: Tsachu Gonma to Dur Tsachu (3,330 m). Distance: 6.5 km | Time: 3 hrs | Elevation Gain: 220 m | Loss: 600 m. Enjoy another short day! Have a bath in a hot spring in the morning, or hike towards Dur Tsachu and enjoy the hot spring bath there! The trail goes through a mixed forest in a deep valley, gradually descending with numerous ups, downs, and side-streams. After crossing the river over a solid bridge, you will pass the Snowman Trek junction. Dur Tsachu has a solid house for sleeping and cooking, and a local shop with some basic supplies might be open. The pools are hot and enjoyable, though quite small.

• Day 10: Dur Tsachu to Tshochenchen (4,100 m). Distance: 11.5 km | Time: 7 hrs | Elevation Gain: 1,500 m | Loss: 680 m. This will be a difficult day, starting with a steep, long climb to Kutong La pass (4,420 m). The first half of the ascent goes through the forest, which gives way to shrubs higher up. Innumerable unnamed peaks can be seen towards the west. After the pass, you enter a serene sanctuary dominated by a large lake. Soon after, you start another ascent to Juli La pass (4,700 m). The summit is marked by a stone stupa and seating further below. The views are breathtaking. Start descending to a wide Dur chu valley and beautiful sunny campsite.

• Day 11: Tshochenchen to Chochomey (3,140 m). Distance: 14 km | Time: 6 hrs | Elevation Gain: 100 m | Loss: 970 m. This is a relatively easy day, continuing to trek through the wide valley of the Dur Chu stream. You will pass around the junction towards Thole La and Tsampa, reaching the mixed forest soon after. Finally, you will reach Chochomey clearing for the last night in the mountains.

• Day 12: Chochomey to Dur (2,720 m). Distance: 10 km | Time: 4-5 hrs | Elevation Gain: 80 m | Loss: 600 m. This is a very short day, mostly descending steeply down to Dur village through the pine forest with occasional views around the snowcovered Bumthang hills. Once you reach Dur, you will part final good bye to your horse party and drive to Jakar!

Following adjustments or alterations towards the above itinerary can be considered:

• Skip the Bamurpa halt: While the halt is generally recommended for the sake of high altitude acclimatisation, the physically strong and healthy group would most likely be able to skip this halt day.

• Two nights in Kilkor Thang and then directly to Dur Tsachu: Kilkor Thang is such a beautiful place that two nights with a full day dedicated to exploration will definitely be welcome. While the next days plan, trekking directly to Dur Tsachu might be demanding, it should be feasible for the strong group.

• Extend trek from Tshochechen till Dur: Skipping the last day and finishing the trek day earlier is tempting as the last day is relatively easy. Anyway, only strong groups should attempt this.

Detailed trekking geography can be views accessed on Mapy.com, or you can download GPX file.

Conclusion

Explored trail and suggested new trekking itinerary are only the very beginning of the long process. As exploration team believe, at the end, Gangkhar Puensum Circuit will become one of the most popular and iconic treks to be experienced in Bhutan, along with the Jomolhari Circuit, Laya-Gasa Trek and Snowman Trek.

Moving forward, the primary immediate steps required are the formal administrative approval of the three new campsites and the strategic promotion of the route to international audiences. Furthermore, modest improvements to the trail along the Mangde Chu and possibly building a bridge or ford at Bamurpa would benefit tourists and locals alike.

Simultaneously, numerous additional opportunities exist for exploration surrounding the newly established trail. Developing an engaging selection of day excursion options from Kilkor Thang to afford even superior views of Gangkhar Puensum represents one of the more readily achievable objectives. Another endeavor would involve seeking a pass linking with the established trail between Warathang or Zanam campsites, in the direction to Lunana, thereby providing an alternative conclusion to the Snowman Trek. Another exploration opportunity is to confirm the condition of an alternative trail leading from Zhogye Phu to Dur Tsachu through Jiu Thang valley, the way taken by the 2017 exploration group. And checking the viability of other passes from Kilkor Thang to Zhogye Phu.

In that regard, the Firefox Tours exploration team would be pleased to share their findings beyond this report and support any endeavor to promote the trail and expand the knowledge of the area for the benefit of all trekkers and Bhutan's tourism community.

These trails have always existed in the knowledge and footsteps of local people, used for yak herding and, more recently, cordyceps collection. What the Firefox Tours team managed to do was bridge the gap between local practical knowledge and trekking geography. Certainly, there are more similarly attractive trails waiting to be opened for trekking in similar fashion.

Ultimately, the successful establishment of the Gangkhar Puensum Circuit represents a significant new asset for Bhutan's high-value tourism sector, promising to create new economic opportunities and sustainable livelihoods for the local communities in the Trongsa and Bumthang dzongkhags.

Crucially, the development of the new trail might also refresh the marketing narrative of the somewhat stalemated trekking tourism sector. Even though trekking has been the mainstay of Bhutan tourism for decades it should not be taken as granted. Farm road development practically ended many of the famous treks. Electricity transmission lines in Jomolhari and Lingshi reduced the wilderness appeal. The new road, set to reach Laya village, effectively slices the renowned Snowman Trek in half.

The launch of the Gangkhar Puensum Circuit Trek thus offers the unique opportunity to communicate a vital truth: Bhutan remains the world's premier trekking destination. It is a place where unparalleled remoteness, adventure, exploration, and new discoveries are still happening.

Footnotes

¹ Steve Berry, mountaineer, explorer, and Managing Director of Mountain Kingdoms, organized a mountaineering expedition to Gangkhar Puensum in 1986. His detailed account of the expedition, published in the Himalayan Journal, Volume 44 (1988), remains a valuable and authoritative reference on early exploration efforts in the area.

² Although Bamurpa, the highest campsite on this trek, is sometimes referred to as the Gangkhar Puensum Base Camp, direct views of Gangkhar Puensum from this location are largely obstructed by surrounding hills. Instead, the skyline is dominated by its eastern neighbor, Melungi Khang (6,902 m).

³ All viewpoints and viable side-trips from Kilkor Thang are yet to be thoroughly explored.

⁴ A concise overview of all known summit attempts on Gangkhar Puensum is available in the article Highest unclimbed mountains: Top 6 virgin peaks published on the Altezza Travel website.

⁵ Cordyceps sinensis (Ophiocordyceps sinensis), locally known as yartsa gumbu, is a high-altitude parasitic fungus that grows from caterpillar larvae and is traditionally used in Tibetan and Chinese medicine; its harvest provides a major seasonal income for Himalayan communities.

⁶ As anyone with experience working with local informants in the high Himalayas can attest, indigenous geographic information requires caution. Locals do not use maps; instead, they navigate primarily by memory or even intuition. Due to their impressive ability to travel quickly across vast stretches of extremely rugged terrain, their estimates of distance and difficulty might differ by a large margin.

⁷ According to the map, the 1986 team took a more difficult indirect path to reach the mountain than the Firefox Tours team. Instead of walking through the Mangde Chu valley, they trekked from Dur Tsachu to Warathang campsite at the Snowman Trek route and then crossed unnamed mountain pass to reach Mangde Chu upstream. The trail through the narrow section of the valley used by Firefox Tours probably did not exist that time or could not be walked for some reason. Map also mentions two places south of Gangkhar Puensum in Mangde Chu valley. First is Suntha (perhaps corrupted sumthang – meaning three meadows) and Gangitsawa (mountain base). However, these might be just generic terms used by expedition's Bhutanese trekking team and not established local names.

⁸ The exploration team carried a Starlink Mini device, which enabled members to connect to the internet, monitor weather forecasts, and post updates regarding their progress. This connectivity was vital, as Kilkor Thang is situated approximately a three-day trek from the nearest cellular network.

⁹ Nepal’s Kongma La on the Three Passes Trek comes as the most similar comparison.

This report is also available for Download as PDF.

Firefox Tours now offers Gangkhar Puensum Circuit to the interested trekkers!